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Season Cookout

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by Cliff Lowe

"Southern barbecue is the closest thing we have in the US to Europe's wines and cheeses; drive a hundred miles and the barbecue changes." John Shelton Reed

"The summer picnic gave the ladies a chance to show off their baking hands. On the barbecue pit, chickens and spareribs sputtered in their own fat and a sauce whose recipe was guarded in the family like a scandalous affair." Maya Angelou

"I'm hungry!" Cliff Lowe

Well, let us speak of many things concerning the art of cookouts and barbecuing. Somehow, the term barbecue or BBQ has come to be misused. The idea has come to be that if anything is cooked over any kind of open fire or on a gas or charcoal grill, it is barbecued. In fact, it is quite possible to barbecue with an everyday stove and not have one open flame in sight. Cooking something over an open flame or fire is 'roasting' not barbecuing. Cooking something on a gas or charcoal grill is not barbecuing, it is grilling.

True barbecuing is the use of rubs and sauces, usually, but not always, tomato based. The process involves either roasting or grilling combined with seasoning, basting, and then, sometimes, simmering gently for a few minutes in the sauce (this is the TRUE and best BBQ) preferably over a flame or bed of hot coals, with a lot of good Hickory or Mesquite smoke.

ALL ABOUT COOKERS
If you are going to be the best cook on your block or in your town, you not only need to know recipes, you need to know about the units you use for barbecuing and grilling. And if you are a beginner, the information that follows will help you buy, use, and maintain your cooker and be a better outdoor cook. And while your neighbor keeps spending money every few years buying a new grill, you can save money and keep using old faithful year after year. So read on.

There are two basic types of backyard cookers, the grill type and the kettle type. The kettle type is shaped like a bowl kettle on tripod legs, with a domed top. When the top is on, the whole unit is ball shaped. These are charcoal burners, and are designed with vents and draft controls that allow you to cook as with a conventional grill and then, just before the BBQ is finished, you can put the cover on, close the vents and the whole thing fills with smoke which is wafted around and over the food, intensifying the smoky charcoal flavor. They range from smaller units to a size that will accommodate a 12 to 14 pound turkey.

Also, permanent, home-built grills, constructed of stone, brick, or concrete blocks can be excellent BBQs. It all depends on the skill of the builder. They are fairly simple to build; all that is required is a place to build and bank the fire, steel or iron bars to make the grill, and an area to set the food. The better ones often have chimneys to increase the draft and I have seen one that also had an oven built in, which did a marvelous job on bread and pizza.

When the television show "Dallas" was being written and produced, the writers figured that since the setting was Texas, the wealthy family featured in the film would BBQ in their backyard a lot, and so they contacted a manufacturer to design a grill that would be appropriate for a super rich Texas oil family to have in their back yard. The grill was designed and featured in the show. The manufacturer decided to make it available for those in the public sector who could afford it and it is now sold under the commercial name of Par-T-Grill. It is a semi-permanent back yard structure that is about 4 feet tall, 5 feet and 7 inches wide, and about 2 feet, 2 inches deep, made of stainless steel. It burns at very high heat, has 445 square inches of cooking surface, 2 main burners, 1 rotisserie burner, storage cabinets, an ice chest and covered service areas. Don't ask what it costs, 'cause I don't know. ÑAll I know is that I cannot afford one. Chances are, you don't have anything like that either, so we will not go into maintaining one of those.

Backyard grills come as Charcoal, Gas, or Electric Units but, without a doubt, using charcoal is the best and most flavorful way to BBQ. It is, of course, not as convenient as gas but it gives the best heat, the best flame up (yes, you do want flame-up for some recipes)and imparts the deepest smoky flavor to the process.

I absolutely do not recommend electric grills! I have tested several over the years with unsatisfactory results.

RENEWING THE CHARCOAL GRILL
If you have a charcoal grill, getting it ready for summer is a breeze. First remove any old ash or coals that may have (tsk-tsk!) been left over the winter and inspect the bowl for cracks or holes. Small holes probably will not cause a problem, at least for a season, but large holes or cracks mean you should discard the unit, for safety's sake, and get a new one. If, however, there are no large holes or cracks, use a solution of warm water, a good grease cutting dishwashing liquid, and a stiff wooden or steel bristled brush to clean the bowl, inside and out. Rinse well and let it air dry.

Now, this next step is optional, but if you want to make the unit look new, trot on down to the auto supply store and buy a large spray can of engine enamel paint. This paint is designed to bake into a hard enamel when it is heated. In fact, I used to use it to paint a new muffler system before I put it on a car. I have had systems last for years because the paint protected the unit from rust. But I digress. Now that you have chosen the color paint you wish, apply it to the outside of your cooker and allow it to completely dry. One can should be more than enough to do the whole unit.

Once the paint is dry, place a half-bag of charcoal in the unit. Make sure you are completely outside when you do this next step because the paint will give off a strong paint and chemical odor as it bakes. Once you have the charcoal in the unit, light it in the usual manner, replace the grill, and allow the charcoal to completely burn away. The high heat will clean the grill by burning away any residue and your old unit will now have a nice, shiny coat of enamel paint baked right onto it. If you are not sure whether the paint odor is completely burnt away or not, repeat the process again. Of course, you don't have to paint it; just omit the painting step and do everything else and you will have a clean grilling unit, ready to use. If you choose to paint, however, be sure you do all these steps before cooking any food on the grill. Otherwise, you will find the smell unpleasant, and your food may be tainted with the paint odor.

ABOUT CHARCOAL FIRES
Charcoal comes in two types. There is hardwood charcoal and softwood charcoal. High quality charcoals are made from Beech, Maple, Birch, Oak and Hickory woods. Hardwood briquettes are the best because the high density of the wood itself greatly reduces the amount of resins that may be present in the briquettes. Low resin content results in briquettes with low tar which, therefore, smoke less and have less odor. The briquettes burn more evenly, with no sputter, and produce a more uniform heat level for efficient cooking.
Always store your unused charcoal in a waterproof container and in a dry area because the briquettes tend to absorb moisture. You haven't had frustration until you have tried to get a decent fire from a bunch of damp charcoal.

To prepare your fire, first line the fire box with heavy aluminum foil, shiny side up. This serves two purposes; it helps make cleanup easier and the foil helps reflect the heat upward toward the grill. However, commercial sand or gravels can be used to line the bottom of the cooker before placing the charcoal. I prefer the foil, because when all is cooled down, I can just fold it up and drop it in the garbage. Nearly instant cleanup.

I build a charcoal fire in this manner. First, take several sheets of newspaper and ball them up. Six or eight balls (1 per sheet) of newspaper placed in the bottom of the cooker will do nicely. Cover with several small pieces of softwood kindling. Pile on the amount of charcoal you anticipate you will need, stacked in a rough pyramid shape. Add liquid fire starter according to manufacturer's instructions. Light the newspaper with a match or other charcoal igniter. Warning: be prepared to light the charcoal as soon as you finish applying the liquid starter. Do NOT let it stand for a few minutes because vapors can build and create a flash fire explosion when you insert an open flame. Also, do NOT spray starter directly from the can onto a hot fire or surface as it may ignite and the flame can run backwards up the stream and to the source of the liquid . . . . in this case the can you are holding in your hand (of which you have become so fond over the years).

Once the initial flame dies down, you will notice little white corners and spots on the briquettes. This signifies that the briquettes are starting to burn. Allow them to stand until all the briquettes have turned white or ash gray. Depending on the weather conditions, this can take half-hour or better. Once this point has been reached, spread the now hot charcoal evenly over the bottom of the cooker, set the grill in place, and commence cooking.

Since commercial charcoal has little flavor, it is often desirable to add flavoring to anything being grilled. One way to do this is to brush the meat during cooking with a bit of liquid smoke which can be purchased in most major grocery stores. Another way is to use wood shavings from hickory or other hardwood. These are usually sold in bags at cookout supply stores and are simply sprinkled atop the briquettes just before you are finished, where they produce smoke that flavors whatever you are cooking. Mesquite is sometimes used. Mesquite (pronounced MESS-keet) is a woody bush which grows in the southwestern deserts of the United States and is cherished by many for the unique flavor it produces on grilled meat.

If you happen to be using a kettle type grill, when the wood or mesquite is added, place the cover on, close all the vents, and let it sit for a few minutes or until the food has cooked to your satisfaction. The advantage of the kettle grill is that it traps the smoke and wafts it in a circular motion up, over and around the food which heavily applies the flavor you desire. Kettle grills are also convenient for cooking large items such as whole poultry (turkeys included) or roasts.

ALL ABOUT GAS GRILLS
Probably the most popular units used in backyard cooking today are the gas grills. Gas grills are rated by how many BTUs (British Thermal Units) of heat they put out per unit of space. They can be purchased in a range of anywhere from 22,000 BTU up to 65,000 BTU. Obviously, you want to buy the best one you can afford. The hotter they are, of course, the more expensive they are. I would not recommend anything under 32,500 BTU but I doubt you really need anything hotter than 52,000 BTU By all means, if you wish to pay the extra price, go for 52,000, or more, but about 45,000 BTU is a good average to buy.

HOW IT WORKS
A gas burner heats the permanent 'briquettes'in the bottom (also called the 'tub'or the 'firebox') of the grill. Food cooks from the heat evenly radiated from these hot briquettes and it drips fats, oils and liquids on the hot 'coals' creating smoke, and some flaming, from time to time. This enhances the foods with the special smoky flavor associated with outdoor cooking.

The advantage of a gas grill is you get the marvelous flavor of outdoor cooking combined with absolute heat control and flexibility of a gas burner. You can vary the heat, and have just the heat you need instantly by turning a knob.

There are two types of gas grills. One type uses natural gas and one uses 'LP'(Liquid Propane) gas. The construction of the grills is the same, but the orifice which controls the gas is much larger for natural gas due to the differences of heat emission between the two gases. Therefore, to be safe, you always know and use the correct type for your grill. Something else you should know is that liquid propane, when exposed to the air, will expand 27 times its volume! This is why that little bottle you hook to your burner can give you so many hours of cooking. If not treated properly, however, it can also become a small, highly destructive bomb! Remember: roughly speaking, 1 gallon of LP in the bottle, is like 27 gallons in an explosion!

Gas grills are great for the convenience of use. Turn the knob, push the starter button, set the temperature and start cooking. However, the maintenance and cleanup is a bit more involved than with an old charcoal cooker.

'TUNE UP' THAT OLD GRILL FOR SUMMER COOKING
Now, if you are like me and a lot of other folks, when the last season ended, you threw a cover over the old grill, rolled it into the back of the garage or a shed (and some of us even left them standing outside on the patio) and forgot about it until the next cookout season rolls around. Well, the season is here but before you just jump into firing up the old cooker, let's do a little 'tune up' for culinary sake and for safety's sake.

CLEAN THE GRIDS, GRATE, AND BRIQUETTES
First, inspect the lava grate (upon which the briquettes rest) to see if it is broken or about to break. This often happens due to being subjected to the extreme changes of heat. If broken, replace the grate.

Next, check the cooking grid (or grill) and warming rack. If dirty, clean with a wire brush or scraper to remove any built-up food residue and clean using a mild detergent solution or a commercial degreaser after first carefully reading the instructions on the label. If the grid is broken or severely chipped and gouged, replace with a universal replacement or order from the company that made your unit.

Now about briquettes. First, if you noticed toward the end of the last season that you were getting a lot of flare-up, or uneven heat distribution, you should discard the old briquettes and get new ones. If the problem didn't exist or was minimal, you can clean the briquettes. If you have the ceramic briquettes (which I prefer) the easiest way to clean them is to dump them in your sink, and cover them with vinegar. Let stand for 10 minutes. Drain off the vinegar and rinse thoroughly with boiling water. Let dry thoroughly before using.

If you have the porous lava rock you might want to check with your local dealer about a commercial cleaning solution. If they are more than two seasons old, you should replace them.

CHECK THE GRILL IGNITER
If the igniter does not seem to be functioning, check to make sure the electrode is 1/8th (one-eighth) inch away from the burner. This is the correct distance for spark generation. Check closely to ensure that no food residue has gotten on the electrode or that the electrode is not cracked. Check the surrounding area of the igniter to be sure that it is not shorting out or sparking at the grill frame or the casting bottom. If none of these problems exist but it does not spark, it is time to get a new igniter.

CLEAN AND INSPECT THE GRILL BURNER
CAUTION: be sure to consult the owner's manual for the instructions on how to remove the burner. Also, before removing the burner, take particular note of the position of the Venturi tube(s) at the gas control valve. click for illustrations

Following manufacturer's instructions, remove the burner. Use a stiff brush to remove any residue from the burner. Inspect closely for holes or cracks and note that these occur most commonly at the burner seams. Unplug the burner ports (the little holes along the edge of the burner) using a toothpick or a piece of copper wire. You may also use a small nail, but be careful because steel it is hard enough to damage the ports. If you encounter any kind of damage, discontinue use immediately and replace the burner with a new one.

After sitting over the winter, the Venturi tubes may contain dirt, spider webs, water or other debris. These tubes may be cleaned by using bent pipe cleaners, a very small bottle brush, or a special Venturi brush which can be purchased from your local dealer. A note here: it is not recommended that you remove the Venturi tubes from the burner's base because it is easy to damage the sealing gasket and break the seal.

CLEAN THE GRILL HOUSING
Now, while you have everything out of the housing, or 'casting' as they call it in the trade, is a good time to clean it, too. Using a commercial grease remover (always be sure to follow the directions for use on the label), wear rubber gloves and eye protection and use a stiff or steel brush and a scraper to remove any soot and grease residue build-up from the inside housing of your cooker. Before actually cleaning be sure to cover valve orifices and connection parts with aluminum foil to protect them from damage and blockage.
After you have brushed and scraped, wipe clean and dry with paper towels. At this point, you are ready to replace all parts.

Reinstall the burner(s), igniter, rock grate, lava rocks or ceramic briquettes, and the cooking grids. Note: be sure to replace the burners the exact way they were before removing them. Remember, at the beginning, I told you to take particular note of the Venturi tube positions? So, when replacing the burner, place the ends of the Venturi tubes over the gas valves so they engage in a straight line. Make sure that the valve orifices are 1/4 (one-quarter) inch inside the Venturi tubes.

INSPECT THE HOSE ASSEMBLY
NOTE: before starting, follow these rules to ensure safety: DO NOT SMOKE or permit any flame or other source of ignition in the area while conducting the leak test. DO NOT use matches, lighters, or flames of any kind to check for leaks. DO conduct the test outdoors in a well ventilated area. DO NOT use the grill until all leaks are repaired and double checked! Finally, if for some reason you are unable to stop a leak, shut off the gas supply and call a qualified Gas Appliance professional.

Inspect the hose closely for cracks, nicks or cuts. If you find any of these, do NOT think you can repair them with electrical tape or any other kind of sealer. The gas is under pressure and any defect weakens the hose which may result in a fire or explosion. If any of these problems are found, replace the hose before using the unit. If no damage is found, perform the soap test.

To do the soap test, mix a half and half solution of water and dishwashing soap in a bowl. Make sure, before you start, all control knobs are in the 'Off' position. Rub the soap solution over all hose connections then turn gas on at the tank (or the gas valve for natural gas units). Check each connection to see if there are any bubbles gurgling up. If so, the connection is leaking gas.

If you detect a leak, wipe off the solution, remove the hose and reconnect, being sure fittings are straight and connections tightened. If the leak persists, replace the hose assembly.

It is also important to check your propane tank (if applicable) to ensure there are no holes, dents, or cracks and/or other damage. If any damage is detected, the tank should be replaced immediately. Also, most areas have a expiration date which governs the life of the tank. If the tank is past its expiration date, replace it immediately. Now is a good time to check and ensure all nuts and bolts and other connections on the unit are solid and tight.

Although, reading this sounds like a lot of work, it is quite easy, simple and fast do to. If you have done grill maintenance before, it will take about an hour. If you are doing it for the first time, do not rush. It may take about two hours, but it is worth it to have a safe grill that will give good service and last for years of good cooking.

SOME HANDY TIPS FOR GRILLING
Cooking out is a long and old tradition in the south and elsewhere. I believe it was done in the south long before it was thought about anywhere else. Southern summers can be mighty hot and cooking over any heat inside, especially the huge old fireplaces in the southern kitchens before the civil war, can be deadly. Therefore, it was natural for the evening meal to be cooked outside over open fire and with open kettles. One of the most famous holdovers from that era is a product called a "Hush Puppy!" The story goes that during the late evening cookouts, the dogs would get all excited at the smells of cooking and would begin to bark and howl. The cooks would make a cornmeal mixture containing onions and deep fry large tablespoons of these in hot fat which was heated in open, large and deep, black cast iron kettles suspended over open flame. When cooled, these would be tossed to the noisy canines with the admonition to 'hush puppy!" thus the name and the recipe for a type of bread that I dearly love. The recipe is below, and I hope you like it, too. But, for safety's sake, cook it in an electric deep fryer. Hot oil and open flame do not make for a safe combination. Once you taste these little delicacies, your poor dog will probably never get a chance at one. Enjoy.

When cooking out with your gas grill, I recommend using either low or medium heat for cooking. It is seldom necessary to use the highest setting except when cooking with the lid up. Even then, with a good cooker, it is doubtful you will need the highest setting. I find that food cooked over medium heat with the lid down as much as possible during the cooking time, cooks evenly and is less dry. Especially when using bastings and sauces.

Conversely, when cooking steaks such as Porterhouse, Rib, or Sirloin I want the lid up and the heat high. I also want flame-up because I like the flavor of a steak kissed by flame. And, when necessary, I accomplish that by mixing a bit of hickory flavoring in about a quarter of a cup of cooking oil, then pouring directly on the hot coals or briquettes immediately before I am ready to serve the steak. I quickly flame the steak on each side until the fat of the steak is melting and sizzling, which only takes a half-minute. Then remove and serve.

When barbecuing be sure to accommodate whatever sauce you are using. I like to rub the ribs with seasonings (a 'rub') first and cook to the desired doneness. Then I begin coating with sauce and turning and cooking just a bit longer to glaze the ribs. I then put them in a large pan of prepared barbecue sauce, which is simmering, and let them simmer for about 5 minutes. Remove from direct heat, keep covered and warm, and let them sit for 15 minutes before serving. Or, if you and your guests prefer, after glazing, serve them with the sauce on the side. Makes this old southern boy's mouth water, it does, just thinking about it.

Burn off the residue of the day's cooking by closing the lid, turning the heat setting to high, and leave undisturbed for about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and scrape with a wire brush. You will have a clean grill ready for tomorrow.

Tender cuts of meat are best for grilling. Less tender cuts can be grilled but should be first tenderized by pounding or marinating.

Steaks or chops should be at least an inch thick for best results.

Meat cooks best and with more flavor if allowed to reach room temperature before grilling.

Meat and fish should not be salted until after cooking. Salt tends to draw out the moisture which may give a drier and tougher result.

Oil or butter based sauces may be applied during the duration of cooking, but tomato and/or sugar based sauces (barbecue sauces, for example) should be applied only during the last 5 minutes of cooking, else they will burn.

Prepared frozen fish may be placed on the grill directly from the freezer.

Always keep wind direction in mind. Cooking times may vary according to how windy the day is and whether the cooking surface is sheltered from it.

When cooking poultry always check internal temperatures by inserting a meat thermometer in the thickest part of the inside thigh (without touching the bone) where it joins the body. The temperature at this point should read 185 degrees F. when safe to eat. If possible, insert the thermometer before cooking.

Meats thawed in microwaves lose a lot of their natural juices.

However, sausages may be precooked in a microwave, then finished on the grill to ensure complete doneness without over-charring the surface of the sausage.

Keep a box of baking soda handy to put out large grease fires. Water is not recommended as it tends to spread the fire rather than kill it.

Do not thaw frozen hamburgers but put directly on the grill.

Fish is cooked when it becomes opaque and flakes easily with a fork.

When cooking whole fish, cook 10 minutes for each inch of thickness measured at the thickest point of the fish's body. Turn the fish halfway through the cooking time.

Shrimp, crabs, crayfish, and lobsters turn red when done. Mollusks in the shell such as clams, mussels, and oysters open up when cooked.

To test the doneness of small portions of meat such as steaks, chops, or burgers, use the following guideline:

RARE: the meat gives easily when touched. No juices appear on the surface of the meat.

MEDIUM: the meat feels firmer but slightly springy and juices begin to appear on the surface.

WELL DONE: the meat may be covered with clear juices. It is very firm to the touch and does not yield to pressure.

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